Ballet Without A Programme

Some would argue that ballet and opera are no longer living arts. That is, they do not affect the cultural landscape in the same way films or other media do. To be sure, a new and excellent ballet can and does affect a number of people and change them, but not society as a whole. It does not seem to be something that the modern mind connects with. Nevertheless, on my honeymoon I went to see a ballet in the amazing 1875 Paris Opera House, the Palais Garnier.

My wife had given me these tickets during the previous Christmas and we were both excited. Neither of us had ever seen a live ballet before. Unfortunately, it turned out that the two seats she was able to score for that night were not adjoining, or even in the same "box." We split up inside the beautiful old opera house, promising to meet at intermission. I was immediately struck by the enormous six-ton chandelier, ornate gold facings, and plush red seats. This was what I expected from a ballet in Paris, an ancient ritual in a domain of flamboyant riches.

The ceiling, painted more recently by Mark Chagall, took my breath away. Yellows, reds, blues, and greens swirled around scenes of Dionysian revelry. Couples embraced and I thought of my wife, and vainly tried to peer down and around to where I thought her box might be. Meanwhile, a French family entered the box, and their young daughter complained that she couldn’t see. So, being the polite gentleman I like to think of myself as, I let the small girl take my seat. Immediately, I knew I made a mistake. My view of stage left became partially blocked by a pillar, though if I leaned out over her I could see more clearly.

The ballet of the day was Paquita, apparently a typical 19th century production. As the music struck up, I realized that I did not have a programme, and even if I did, it would be in French. I certainly had not read up on the ballet, did not know the libretto, and as the dancers appeared I realized that I was going to have no earthly idea what was happening.

I could appreciate a few things immediately, of course. The costumes were bright and colorful, made with care and extravagance. The dancers themselves performed athletic spins and twirls and jumps that put pro basketballers to shame. A barbarian like me could wonder at these marvelous skills, even while remaining in the dark about the story.


Rather than let myself be swept away by the music and dance moves, I decided to try to fight my confusion and figure it out. Gypsies, bullfighters, and soldiers mixed on the stage, all seeming to fight over one Bohemian girl. The company stood on the edges watching the performance like the chorus in Greek theater. Groups of children ran across the stage in several scenes and I wondered how much they understood of what they were doing. I had always enjoyed the symphony, but here it seemed tangential rather than the primary attraction. Having attended operas and musicals, I kept expecting the dancers to burst into song, and their silence baffled me.

The girl in my assigned seat blew her nose loudly and the mother hit her on the shoulder. Nevertheless, she did it again, louder. I tried to ignore her and concentrate on the plot. The gypsy girl has a falling out with a gypsy man. A soldier is much nicer to her and seems like the hero. The gypsy steals a locket from her. A bald guy in red hangs around the background, and I surmise he is the devil. The second act is easier to understand. The gypsy goes to kill someone in a bar. The bald guy, who appears masked and certainly must be the devil, encourages him. They invite the soldier in to the table and are going to get him wasted, and then stab him.

Of course, the girl who loves the soldier isn’t going to let this happen. They set the table for pasta and meatballs, which I find to be an odd choice in what I thought was Spain. The gypsy and soldier eat, and the girl sticks around, even though the gypsy doesn’t want her to. She switches the glasses, and breaks the bottle "accidentally" so no one can drink more. The gypsy king drinks while the girl dances around, providing entertainment. The gypsy keels over, and drops the locket. The girl and soldier grab it and escape through a magical passage in the chimney.

At intermission I share my interpretation of the events with my wife, who looks a bit confused herself. She has been focusing on the technique, the beauty in the dance, and the music. She mentions the dozens of movements happening at once, the nearly mechanical wonder of the performance. I shrug. "I still wish I had the libretto."

After intermission I can’t locate the right box and only by peeking in through various curtains to look for the little girl in my old seat do I find it. A ballroom scene full of soldiers follows. I use my powers of literary analysis and peg this as "the hero’s return to his world." The girl accuses the bald guy in red, who is not the devil, but some rival or other lord of the solider. He is dragged off, looking quite put out. The parents of the hero accept the gypsy girl, and this has something to do with the locket stolen earlier by the other gypsy. Perhaps she is not a gypsy after all, and by some 19th century logic is acceptable in their polite society.

The story is over but the dances continue, all fairly similar. The music spins like a carousel, round and round. The last few dances lose narrative coherence and seem completely extraneous. At this point I realize that the entire story was only an excuse for spectacle, that Paquita did not strive for emotions like opera, but rather worked as a feast for the eyes and ears. Was it only this piece? Or do all ballets work this way? Does that make it better or worse?

Regardless, I had been entertained trying to figure out the plot, even if it wasn’t important. The performance also challenged my ideas of what to expect. Don’t those two characteristics combine to make the "living art" that society needs? Maybe I wasn’t such a barbarian after all. Maybe there was a place for ballet in the modern mind. However, as I got up to leave, I noticed the parents of the little girl in my former seat shaking her. She had fallen asleep.



First published at Hackwriters.

First Hike of Autumn


We've been biking most of the summer, and using our new basement gym. So it was with great pleasure and a little surprise that I enjoyed our first hike of autumn so much last weekend.


We only hiked about four miles, stopping on a traprock ledge for a lunch of ramen before heading home.

I'm looking forward to more hikes through the Connecticut forests this fall!

First Church of Simsbury


Passed this wonderful church in Simsbury on a recent bike ride. It was built in 1830, replacing a 1740 church, which in turn replaced a 1683 one. Find out more here.

We take these wonderful churches for granted too often, especially sinners like me. But in these democratic meeting houses America was founded, and built, one parishoner at a time.

Newtown Arts Festival


Had a great time the other week at the Newtown Arts Festival...wonderful shopping, food, and fun.


Amy's poem, "Still Life with Parsnips and Snow" had won an honorable mention in the Newtowner contest, and she accepted her award.


The judge (blind judging of course) was Dick Allen, the poet laureate of Connecticut, and a good friend, so we were quite happy that he chose Amy's poem as one of the worthies.


Personally, I liked Amy's poem more than the one that won first prize, but of course I am quite partisan when it comes to that.


Rice Spice Noodle


Had a chance to stop by Rice Spice Noodle in Mystic last week. Absolutely delicious.


We had the place to ourselves at 3 pm. A couple arrived just as we were finishing, and found out that the chefs were running out for more supplies. They sat down to wait a half hour for the chefs to come back. "We come here all the time," they said. "We can't get enough of it."


Find out more in the Insiders' Guide to Connecticut!


James Merrill House in Stonington


James Merrill, one of the 20th centuries great poets, lived in Stonington, Connecticut for forty years. His wonderful two-story apartment was gifted to the town, and now is open on select occasions for the public. Go here to find out more about it.


They also sponsor a writer-in-residence program in which you get to live in the amazing place for a season. Amy thought about applying, but then realized she would have to live away from me (and the cats) for several months. That is not happening. But for those young, unattached writers out there, I can't think of a more inspiring place to work.


At McLaughlin Vineyard


Gave a presentation at the McLaughlin Vineyard in Newtown this week. We had a lot of fun talking to the local horticultural club, and getting great questions. Luckily, DeeDee from the vineyard was also on hand to answer some of the more difficult agricultural questions!


We also took part in the wine tasting...and the new Vista Reposa at McLaughlin was nothing short of miraculous. 100% Cabernet Franc, with a distinct nose (cherry), middle (cloves), and finish (caramel!).

Bluff Point


Took a walk at Bluff Point State Park recently - a great place to ride a bike, too.


You can walk all the way out to the wonderful beach, but be careful swimming, because there are no lifeguards.


You can see the awesome New London lighthouse from the point, one of the few 'high points' along the Connecticut coast.


Belissimo Grande


Amy and I stayed a night at the Bellisimo Grande near Foxwoods recently. A great alternative to staying at the casino itself, especially on nights when events make the prices too high. We were upgraded to the suite you see above, and I enjoyed the jacuzzi while Amy went down to the spa and got a "killer" massage. A shuttle takes you back and forth to Foxwoods - very convenient, especially for some of the (very drunk) people we shared it with. They even have quiet hours to make sure people don't come back and whoop it up while the rest of us are trying to sleep. I highly recommend a stay here (see the Insiders' Guide to Connecticut, of course).

Kobe Beef Meatballs


Tried grass-fed Kobe beef for these meatballs the other day. Egg, basil, onion (fried), breadcrumbs, and the aforementioned Kobe.


Made a nice brown sauce with tomato paste, cumin, red wine, red miso, basil, and more.


And I must say, despite my skepticism, they were some of the best if not the best meatballs I've ever had. Absolutely delicious. My wife says that is due to my superior technique, but I am not going to take credit for this one. Hats off to the Kobe beef...it lived up to its reputation, even in ground up form.

Travel and Adventure

In the 56th episode of the Real Life Survival Guide we discussed travel primarily as it pertains to “vacations” and not “adventure travel.” It’s difficult to have physically active adventures as parents of small children, as many of our panelists are. Or rather, we could say that even the simplest vacations become “adventures” when small children are along!

...Read the rest of my article about adventure travel at the Real Life Survival Guide.